Visiting the Sake Storehouse of “Tama-zakura”

It was towards the end of October, when I visited the sake storehouse of “Tama-zakura” which is located in Shimane prefecture. The cold air gave me chills, but my heart was warm with excitement. The chief brewer Mr.Shouhei Sakurao and his young brother Mr.Keiji welcomed me. Mr. Sakurao is the 5^th generation of this brewery. I was taken to their home, and when I arrived the dining room was already for dinner. Their mother Reiko was an excellent cook, and the dinner was all beautiful and very delicious. Boiled vegetables and beans, vegetable tempura, and rice balls made by mixed rice called “Takikomi Gohan”. The tasty smell made my stomach growl.

“Our sake makes a great match with these kinds of home-style cooking.”

Shouhei told me, as Keiji brought the “Kansuke” for warming the sake “Tamazakura”.

As we waited for the sake to be warmed, I helped myself towards the food. After waiting several minutes, finally I was able to enjoy the warm taste of sake. The sweet taste of the rice filled my whole body, and warmed me up from the bottom of my heart. What a wonderful, warm and gentle taste it is. Not only gentle, but it had a firm taste as if it was supporting the sweetness at the basis. It really did make a great match with the wonderful feast. It went great along with all the food we ate.

“I wanted to make a sake which goes well with anything we eat. I thought it would be great if we were able to enjoy the Sake as if we are eating and tasting it.”

As I listened to Shouhei’s explanation, I could not help myself to stop drinking, and the small sake cup was not enough. Finally I was served with a bigger cup. I assume that it was because the sake was warm, that made me unstoppable to drink.

“Tamazakura is our family’s best sake.”

Reiko said with joy, and her husband and also the president of the brewery smiled to me. “Tamazakura” definitely had a magic to make everyone smile.

Aiming for a flavor which only Tamazakura can make

The brewery started from Meiji period, year 1892. The president is now the 4^th generation, Mr.Sadao Sakurao, and the 5^th generation Shouhei works as the chief brewer. During its peak period they sold around the kokudaka (stipend) of 4000, but now it is around 400.

They used rice from the local farmers, and 80% of the Sake share is based on junmaishu which is a type of Sake made purely only from rice. However, when Shouhei came back to the brewery to work at the age of 16, things were not going so well. There share was declining, and 80% of the total share was based on futsushu, which is an ordinary quality Sake. Shouhei thought he must change things to improve, and this was when he started to image the kind of Sake he wanted to make.

“I first enjoyed Sake when my teacher taught me the wonderful taste of Sake during my college days. I started drinking many kinds of Sake, and reached to a conclusion that I wanted to make a Sake purely with rice, an ultimate junmaishu.”

Shouhei started to study the traditional way to make Sake, “Kimoto zukuri” which was from Edo period. Since his senior brewer did not know this way, Shouhei had to study by himself, first by reading books.

“I didn’t want to make a Sake which its taste will change easily by a slight change of environment and temperature. I wanted to make a strong and firm Sake, and Kimoto zukuri was the best way to reach my goal.”

Shouhei told me that he wanted to make a Sake which is fit for Kanzake. I asked him the reason, and he answered with a laugh.

“People drinking Kanzake looked happier than others”.

Simple as that. But this does not mean he is denying cold types of Sake, he was just fascinated by the time and effort done to warm the Sake.

“I just wanted people to simply enjoy drinking Sake. And I thought a warm Sake would warm up the people’s heart as well.”

Shouhei became the top brewer on 2009, and he started making the Sake of his dream. One year after, his young brother Keiji joins the brewery and become Shouhei’s strong partner. Not only that, but their parents was a big support too. “Tamazakura” was a Sake which was made not only by Shouhei, but by his whole family, and that is what made it very special. Reiko’s words pieced my heart.

“Technology has developed rapidly in Sake brewery, and now it is easier than before to make a Sake with a popular taste. But I’m not interested in those kinds of recipes. I want to seek for a Sake which shows the atmosphere and the smell of the brewery, and shows our spirit. Most of all, I want the people to simply enjoy the flavor of the Sake.”

This was what Shouhei repeated several times during our conversation.

“I want people to be happy, and warm. Tamazakura is best when it’s warm”

He concluded with a smile.